

Four decades ago my brother Paul and I hiked and camped throughout the Cascade Mountain Range of Oregon. To celebrate our 58th and 56th birthdays, Paul suggested a four day, three night backpacking trip to revisit this area and to explore the memories it would stir. I was all in.
St. Aquinas said “Expectation is the greater joy” and so it was. We planned and prepared and talked about the trip for months. We replaced worn out camping gear, packed and weighed and repacked and reweighed everything, and charted our course into and through the wilderness areas of Mt. Jefferson and the Three Sisters.
Monday morning, July 12th, we flew to Portland, rented a car and drove to the trailhead into Marion Lake and the Eight Lakes Basin. At 5:09 that afternoon we strapped on the packs and off we went into our own memories. The first few miles were exactly as we remembered – towering Douglas Fir, lush fern banks, quiet streams, placid lakes, and majestic mountains. After a few miles of reminiscing, things changed. We entered an area devastated by fire a few years ago charring 140 square miles of once spectacular wilderness. There was an eerie beauty but mostly the sad, helpless, remnant of a once proud, untouched forest.
Two days in the Eight Lakes Basin was enough. The trails were covered with fallen trees and limbs. The view of destruction never changed. Plan B - instead of five days in that burned-over area, we returned to the car and drove to the Whitewater trailhead and started toward Jefferson Park on the northwest face of Mt. Jefferson.
Mountains have personalities. Mt. Hood is regal and majestic. The Three Sisters are friendly and inviting. Broken Top is harsh and challenging. But Jefferson is strong and confident. As Jonathan was to David, Mt. Jefferson is to Mt. Hood.
Having hiked about eight miles of hard trail earlier in the day we were not eager to strap thirty-five pounds on our backs and hike the 1.7 miles up Whitewater Trail that climbed about 1,500 feet. Once on the trail we were eager to have the climb behind us and polished off that portion in 37 minutes. Not bad for tired old men. We headed east hoping to connect with the Pacific Crest Trail system another 2.7 miles ahead. We would then hike the final one mile into Jefferson Park with enough time to set-up camp and cook dinner. 2.3 miles down the trail, we came to Whitewater Creek only to discover the bridge washed out. Daylight was burning. We decided to camp where we were and ford the stream in the morning.
After breakfast we rolled up pants legs and entered the water that a few hours earlier had been snow. Once across the stream we hiked up a snow bank and entered a patch of snow hoping to soon connect with the Pacific Crest Trail. The patch lasted the next 4 hours. All we had were a few glimpses of the trail, an occasional blaze mark hacked into a tree, and some Bigfoot-esk tracks made by people who might have been as lost as we were.
We finally arrived. Mt. Jefferson loomed above. Jefferson Park was totally snow bound. Drifts: eight feet tall. Scout Lake: two-thirds covered with ice. Bays Lake: ninety percent ice. We explored three campsites on bare patches of ground overlooking Scout Lake, picked the best and set up the tent. No fish survived the winter. Freeze dried turkey tetrazzini was delicious. The chocolate pudding required 1 and 7/8th cups of powdered milk not 7/8th - it was a little thick but very rich and chocolaty.
The next morning we hiked a mile or so across the snow to Russell Lake. It was solid ice and snow. We headed west hoping to get some pictures from a ridge overlooking the Park but the crusty snow was too hazardous to go far. We decided to say goodbye to Jefferson Park.
We stuffed the sleeping bags, packed the tent, washed the dishes and loaded the packs. Across the crunchy ice we headed. It took only one hour to work our way down the same section that we had invested four hours navigating on our way up. Whitewater Creek didn’t look quite so imposing having conquered it the day before. The last four miles were all downhill and we sailed out of the mountains in time to have a piece of pie alamode at a nearby diner before setting up camp on the Santiam River. We slept without benefit of the tent. The sky was a blaze with celestial majesty. 17 monstrous Douglas Fir ringed our campsite. Looking past them to the stars it appeared they were leaning inward peering back at us.
The next morning we awoke to the second phase of our late-middle-age adventure.
